The period of which I'm making my costume had three notable differences between hose. Doublets generally had a similar style and cut, however hose differed rather dramatically. To help myself gather a bit more understanding in the comparison - as well as considering which would be best suited for the actor-character who would have a hose suited to his personality.
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| Venitian Hose. French Hose (with cannions). Pluderhose (with cannions and pullings-through). |
Venitian hose is considered to be more traditional more 'normal' looking hose. They were plainer, often worn by lower or 'meaner' classes, or would be worn by people who were more of the upperclass who liked to be taken seriously. The look was considered to have a more 'proper' look to it, than the other styles. I'm not entirely sure if I shall use Venitian hose in my designs yet, as to me, the look comes across as a much more sober, more 'adult' look. Whereas the actor-character I have playing around in my head would technically be a fairly young man considering he is still able to play the female leads of most plays, in this role he would be transitioning from an apprentice actor, to a full role.
'Starting ages for apprentice actors could vary from about ten to sixteen, and the length of service from three to ten years… Once trained, the play-boys could perform for several years in female roles before the onset of puberty, which occurred later than it does now, made them better suited to adult male roles.' (Shapiro, 184)
Due to this, I would feel his design would need a far more 'younger' quality to it, to suit the age of the character, and I feel, perhaps, that Venitian hose would not quite suit him. But I shall scribble up some designs and see what comes to me, and what works in my head.
The French hose is generally the one I believe most people are aware of in terms of clothing of the period - as these mostly feature in paintings and sketches and so on. They were considered one of the most fashionable of all the hose at the time. They could be with or without cannions (the strips of material that would stick out with them) - personally I prefer them with cannions. To me, this seems like the sort of style a younger man or a 'youth' would most likely wear - especially in very bright, bold colours. I feel perhaps my actor-character, seeing as he is young, would perhaps dare to have a pair of French hose with cannions - perhaps in some very bright bold colours to show his extrovert nature, and the position he plays in society.
The Pluderhose seem to be more of a Germanic or Scandinavian design. Big baggy hose, sometimes with added cannions and pullings-through for maximum effect. To the English, such a style was considered almost 'monstrous' in look, due to its excessive size and style put through it (in terms of trim and pullings-through).
'Richard Walweyn was detained for wearing 'a very monsterous and outraygous greate payre of hose'.' (Bailey, 26)
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| Scandinavian doublet and pluderhose with pullings-through. |
Such a style could be assumed to be pluderhose. Though they may have been more of the norm in Scandinavian countries, the sorts of people who most likely would have worn pluderhose in England would have definately been people garnering for attention. As with the Globe's costume of Lucio, not only has he excessive pluderhose with a large codpeice, pullings-through, a combination of yellow and oyster pink. His hat and purse are equally excessive and large in comparison to more traditional styles of the period. Such a style could indeed work for the character I have in mind, as I imagine the actor to be quite the confident - almost cocky and brash character. He could perhaps concievably wear a pair of pluderhose to try and gather more attention unto himself.
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